ORP Control

ORP is the oxidation reduction potential of water that is treated with an oxidizer, such as chlorine. Over the years, I have heard plenty of explanations of what ORP actually is, and how it works, with unfortunate results. Recently, I was driving and while playing with the gadgets on my new car, it dawned on me — ORP control can be compared to the cruise control in a modern automobile!

You see, ORP is a qualitative measurement of how well the oxidizer is performing. Regardless of the residual of oxidizer, a steady ORP will provide superior water quality, keep chloramines at bay, and, with further research, can provide the keys to today’s sanitation issues.

On a side note — pH control has to be stable at all times; if your pH is all over the place, have it evaluated by a pool professional. A pH system should be capable of maintaining a rock steady pH at all times, or else your ORP control will falter. I recommend a pH set point of 7.4 — the pH of the human tear.

So let’s get started with the explanation:
In your car, you have a cruise control system that maintains a steady mph (speed) regardless of the amount of gasoline being utilized (this is measured in mpg). If you activate the cruise control on your car, and set your odometer display to show the mpg’s your car is using, you will see the following:
• Mph is steady throughout the time cruise control is on.
• Mpg varies, depending on the road conditions.
• If the road is level, your mpg’s remain stable with a stable speed (mph).
• If the road goes on an incline, mpg’s go down because more gasoline is used to get more power to climb the hill at the same mph.
• If the road goes on a decline, mpg’s go up because less gasoline is used to reduce the power needed to maintain the same mph.

Now let’s translate this to ORP control:
In your pool, you have an ORP/pH control system that maintains a steady ORP regardless of the amount of oxidizer residual in the pool water. If you activate the ORP control, you will see the following:
• Mph = ORP
• Gasoline use = Chlorine ppm (residual).
• Mpg = Patron use in a pool (up means lower usage, down means heavier bather loads).
• When a pool is opened in the morning, you will have a “level road condition” — the pool ORP is steady, and chlorine ppm is at a starting point.
• Once a pool starts being used by patrons, the chlorine level (ppm) will fluctuate, while ORP remains the same throughout the day.
• As usage increases — it’s like going up an incline in the car — more gasoline (ppm) is needed to maintain a steady mph (ORP).
• As usage decreases — it’s like going down a decline in the car — less gasoline (ppm) is needed to maintain a steady mph (ORP).

At day’s end, you may end up with a higher ppm, and the ORP will start to climb — think of it as the cruise control being shut off while going down a decline — mph goes up, and mpg’s go up. The car will stay this way until it makes it to a level road, and then ORP and ppm will stabilize. When the pool is reopened the next morning, you should be back to that “level road” condition, and the cycle will repeat.

Maybe now some of you will start having an “aha!” moment, and start recognizing that while ORP is steady, chlorine will fluctuate. This is a normal occurrence, and anyone thinking that ORP is supposed to maintain a steady ppm will be pleasantly corrected of this notion at this point.

Now if your pool tends to drop off its ORP set point and stays that way during busy periods, that’s an indicator that your “engine” (the chlorinator) is too small for your application. I suggest you have your system re-evaluated by a pool consultant (one who knows about HCF — high capacity feed chlorination).
Installing larger chlorinators will ensure that your water quality control equipment is properly sized and configured to meet the demands your pool will throw at you. Remember: Consistent maintenance of an ORP level will result in better water/air quality.

All Available Chemical Controllers can be found HERE

*Provided by Clemente Rivera of AquaticsInternational.com:

http://www.aquaticsintl.com/maintenance/orp-control_o.aspx

Finding the Perfect UV System for Your Facility

Tips on selecting, installing and maintaining UV systems in commercial pools

The prevalence of UV water treatment is growing in commercial pool applications throughout the U.S.

Installing a UV-C system at a commercial aquatics facility will lower chemical usage by up to 30- to 50 percent and achieve safer water by eliminating pathogens, viruses and chloramines. In addition, the reduced chloramines will improve the air quality around the pool, especially for indoor facilities. This article will cover the selection of UV-C systems, as well as their installation and maintenance.

Getting started
UV sanitizers offer plenty of unique benefits. However, there are different types, and the proper unit should be selected for specific aquatics applications. In particular, it is important to match the unit size to the pool or waterfeature type — for example, splashpad, play structure, lazy river, etc. Pool professionals who understand the differences can easily determine which unit to recommend.

There are two types of UV lamps. First, there are low-pressure, high-output lamps, which emit UV rays at 254 nanometers. On the other hand, medium-pressure lamps emit UV rays between 200- and 600 nm.

Low-pressure lamps are better suited for semicommercial and commercial applications with lower flow rates and light bather loads, while medium-pressure models are designed for large commercial installations with high flow rates and heavy bather loads. The differences between each lamp are cost, flow requirements and the ability to destroy chloramines (NH2Cl).

Medium-pressure lamps are commonly used for indoor pool applications because their large light spectral is more effective at reducing the health problems caused by nitrogen trichloride (i.e., chloramines), which have been linked to numerous pool closures due to poor indoor air quality.

For semicommercial applications such as hotels, motels or fitness facilities with flow rates more than 110 gallons per minute, a low-pressure, high-output UV system, or an amalgam unit designed to accommodate higher flow rates should be considered.

Selecting a UV-C sanitizer
UV-C systems are sized according to the gallons per minute generated through the filtration system, not the volume of water in the vessel. Bigger is not always better here. The gpm rating is based on lamp and vessel design along with a computational fluid dynamic computer simulation. The correct power rating for a commercial UV unit is 40 megajoules, based on the NSF/ANSI 50 standard. That is the point at which it will sterilize all pathogens found in pool water.

A UV-C unit will handle a range of flows. Manufacturers will produce each unit for a minimum and maximum flow in gpm. As an example, unit XYZ will handle 57 to 80 gpm. If the pool system’s flow rate exceeds the UV-C unit’s maximum gpm rating, the sanitizer cannot achieve the intended 99.9 percent single-organism sterilization. If the water flows through the UV vessel too quickly, the contact between the water column and the UV-C light in the chamber is not long enough to achieve sterilization.

Conversely, if the pool water flows too slowly, it stays in the light chamber too long, and some free chlorine photo-oxidation will occur, thereby increasing the amount of chlorine needed in the pool to achieve enough free chlorine residual.

All of the sterilization happens within the vessel, and UV-C does not leave a residual or create any corrosive gas. Another factor that should be considered when selecting a UV-C unit will be lamp life. UV-C lamps are rated in hours of service life, which is the period of time during which the lamp will produce enough millijoules of UV-C power to properly sanitize the single-cell organisms in the water. Lamp life typically ranges from 6,000 to 16,000 hours, which, in real-world terms, means there are lamps that have a 12-, 16- or 24-month service life. It’s beneficial to purchase a unit that is NSF 50 certified because many municipalities require this.

Installation procedures
UV-C units should be installed in line in the plumbing.

UV-C units must be placed after the filter, and particulate in the water can create a shadow effect inside the unit, between the lamp and any single-cell organism we are trying to sterilize.

If there is a heater in the system, the preferred location for the UV-C unit is before the heater. Using a UV-C unit will extend the life of the heater by removing chloramines, which  are corrosive to the metal in the heat exchanger. Some equipment pads are tight, so if the UV-C unit must be installed after the heater, check with the manufacturer to ensure that the plastic used in that particular unit will handle hot water coming out of the heater.

The units should be installed with enough room for technicians or operators to perform lamp replacements and quartz-tube cleanings in the future. The glass lamp and quartz tubes cannot be bent, so it is important that there be enough space to remove them straight out of the UV system.

A typical pool with a UV-C unit also will include a chlorine feeder. This should be plumbed after the UV-C unit, typically last in line before the water returns to the pool.
UV systems can be easily added to an existing circulation system — again, after the filter and before other accessories such as heaters or chlorinators.

The unit should be plumbed in according to the manufacturer’s instructions so the UV system properly fills with water in relation to the unit’s flow rating.

Many professionals plumb in a bypass. This makes servicing and maintenance easier by allowing the operator or technician to separate the UV system when necessary, especially during winterization. Because the UV lamp and quartz tube are made of glass, they must be brought inside to avoid winter damage, such as freezing, when the pool is not being used. This applies to outdoor commercial pools that might close in the winter.

As found on Aquatics International:

 (http://www.aquaticsintl.com/sanitation/finding-the-perfect-uv-system-for-your-facility_o.aspx)

Check out our Available UV Disinfection Systems Here!

Proper Safety Products for Public Pools

Does your facility have all necessary safety gear? Regulations vary by state, but here are a few products that your facility should have for your pool area.

Ring Buoy/Cabinets:

            Ring Buoy’s are required for most public pools. Our ring buoys are USCG approved and are manufactured under strict codes. Some laws state that your ring buoys must be in orange.

Click here to see our full line of ring buoy’s 

           

            Ring Buoy Cabinet’s hold the ring buoy’s in an unbreakable clear acrylic door. These units are helpful in storing your ring buoy’s and can be easily hung on a wall or on a fence with your own hardware. These cabinets protect the buoy but still allow for easy access.

Click here to see our full line of ring buoy cabinets

Rescue Pole w/ Hook:

            Rescue poles are a necessity for any pool area. You will want to purchase the rescue poles that come with the hook. Using a telescopic pole in a rescue situation is extremely dangerous. It’s recommended to use a straight a pole that is either bolted between pieces or one piece.

 Click here to see our full line of rescue poles

Throw Lines:

            Our throw rope can easily be used with our ring buoys available. These throw ropes are OSHA compliant, and are available in many sizes. Please note that most throw lines need to be 1.5 times the width of your pool. Every ring buoy should also have a throw line already attached to it.

Click here for our full line of throw lines

Proper Signage:

            Every state has specific rules as to which pool & spa signage is needed. Many states can either fine you or close the pool if your signage does not comply with local regulations. Most standard pool rules do not comply with most state regulations. 

Click here for our full line of pool signs

First Aid Kits:

            First Aid kits are a necessity for any facility. Our new Pool First Aid Kits are clearly marked in bold with a red cross for easy visibility. The kit has two brackets so the kit can be easily mounted to the wall. Made especially for the pool deck, the metal carrying case is waterproof and dustproof. Comes in four different sizes.

Click here for our full line of first aid kits

To see our full line of safety products click here 

 Have questions regarding our safety products available?

Give us a call at 800-446-6416!

Differences between Depth Markers

Are you looking to purchase depth markers, but are confused with the difference between the types available?

See below for our explanation on the different types of depth markers.

Ceramic (Skid Resistant vs. Smooth):

Ceramic depth markers are used as a permanent marker, which is installed in either the pool deck or the pool wall. They are installed like a standard tile with mortar and grout. These are purchased for new pool installations/renovations, or to replace cracked existing depth markers.

There are two types of ceramic tiles available. The major difference is that one is skid resistant and the other has a smooth surface finish. Skid resistant tiles are used mainly for the deck or gutter applications. The smooth surface tiles are for waterline applications.

                                                             

Plastic Overlays:

                      

Our Plastic Overlays are made for the waterline depth in your pool. They have rounded corners, a smooth surface, and a thin profile. They can be installed over most surfaces including tile, fiberglass, paint, vinyl liner, etc. Overlays are used to go over existing tile depth marking that has faded or to mark depths inside pools where ceramic tile will not work. They are designed to save you time and money!

Our Plastic Overlays are self-sticking with two very strong 3M adhesive strips. The marking is centered vertically and horizontally with black characters on white background. Overlay thickness is 1/8 inch.

You will need to lower the water level at least 3 inches below where you will be placing the overlay. Allow the overlay to bond for 24 hours before filling the pool. Detailed instructions for application will be included with your order.

3M:

  

             

Our Deck and Coping 3M® Depth Markers are skid resistant and designed for above the water line and deck placement around your pools and decks.  They are quick and easy to install.

Our 3M® Stick-on Depth Markers eliminate messy stenciling. They are made of a durable commercial-grade vinyl and are pressure sensitive. Our 3M® Stick-ons are designed to adhere to sealed, painted, or rough concrete surfaces, as well as existing tile. They are skid resistant which helps prevent slippage.

*Please note that the 3M® Stick-on Depth Markers are for above the water line use only!*

Have questions regarding our different types of Depth Markers?

Give us a call at 800-446-6416.

To See Our Full Line of Depth Markers 

Click Here